Bold Bow - new pillow cover block quilt pattern

 Hello, everyone!

I'm so glad to launch a new quilt block pattern I just finished to write!

I named it Bold Bow. It's obvious why, I think. 

So, a few words about it.

Bold Bow - One Block Pillow Cover Quilt Pattern  is a flexible and practical quilt pattern for intermediate quilters.

Finished Size:

• Unfinished block before quilting: 17"
• Finished pillow cover: 16"

Overview of the Pattern

This quilt pattern offers an elegant and simple approach to creating a one-block pillow cover with mitred corners. While at first glance, it may appear similar to other patterns with a central square, this design introduces a unique and efficient method of piecing the central square without fragmenting special prints or pieced blocks. The result? A seamless, polished look with minimal effort.

The Bold Bow pattern provides a step-by-step guide, ensuring a smooth sewing experience with clear instructions (and more than 40 images) and valuable tips. Even quilters who have struggled with achieving perfect piecing before will find success with this design.

The main steps of the pattern are:

1. Preparing the materials
2. Preparing the block units
3. Assembling the block
4. Finishing the pillow cover front
5. Preparing the pillow cover back
6. Assembling the pillow cover
7. Finishing the pillow cover
8. Layout variation ideas (plus suggestion for making a quilt from 16 smaller blocks - quilt math included).

Why Choose This Pattern?

• Innovative Piecing Method: Unlike traditional designs that use QSTs or appliqué, this pattern offers a fresh approach that preserves the design continuity of feature prints or pieced blocks used in the central square.
• Intermediate-Friendly: Ideal for those with experience handling bias-cut pieces.
• Quick & Efficient: The block can be completed in under two hours, making it an excellent choice for quilters looking for a rewarding project without extensive time commitment.
• Fabric Versatility: Works well with a variety of fabrics, including:
• Quilting cotton
• Thin denim
• Cotton duck
• Lightweight home decor fabric
• Canvas

·   Fat quarter friendly

• Great for Solid and Print Fabrics: Whether you prefer vibrant prints or classic solids, this pattern enhances the beauty of any fabric combination.

Fabric Requirements

• Fabric 1: 12 ½" x 12 ½"
• Fabric 2: 12 ½" x 12 ½"
• Fabric 3 (stripe units fabrics): a piece of about 5" x 42" or 10" x 21"
• Fabric 4 (stripe units fabrics): a piece of about 5" x 42" or 10" x 21"

Perfect for Quilters Who Want:

 A simple yet stylish one-block design.
 A reliable step-by-step guide with clear instructions.
 A time-efficient project with striking results.
 A chance to highlight special prints or intricate pieced blocks.

With Bold Bow, your pillow cover will come together effortlessly, allowing you to enjoy the creative process without unnecessary complexity. Whether you're making a single pillow, a set with layout variations, or a bed quilt, this pattern is designed to be both enjoyable and practical for quilters of all styles.

The Bold Bow quilt pattern is available now. Don’t wait – start your pillow cover quilt today!

Thank you for joining me in celebrating the launch of this special pattern!

Buy Bold Bow pillow cover block quilt pattern. Just 

It takes you to my Etsy Shop.

Have only beautiful sewing days, my dears!

Tutorial -- Love Thoughts - Valentine's Quilt Pillow cover (revised pattern)

10 years ago, at this time, I posted on the blog a pattern dedicated to Valentine's Day. 

I revised it and I share the new version of it with you today.

Overview

To sew this block, we use the Sew & Flip method.

Materials

Fabric Options

Quilting cotton, thin denim.

- Solid colors and non-directional prints work best.

- Wash and press the fabric. Starching cotton quilting fabric and thin fabrics helps achieve accurate edge of the pillow cover.

Cutting

- fabric A (accent fabric) - (1) 6" x 9½" and (1) 6” x 15”

        - fabric B (background) - (6) 6"; (1) 9½" squares

                                               -  (2) 1½” x 15”; (2) 1½” x 17” (border). 

Assemble the block

Place the 6” x 15” piece of the accent fabric right side up. Align over its right edge one 6” square of the background fabric wrong side up. Draw a diagonal line onto the background 6” square from the up left corner to the down right corner (see the dashed line). Stitch on the diagonal marking.  Follow the marked line as accurately as you can, in order to get a neat finished piece. Trim the corner off 1/4” away from the stitched line.

Flip the triangle open and press seam allowance toward A fabric rectangle. Align over the triangle of B fabric, another 6” square wrong side up. Mark a diagonal line from the down left corner to the up right corner. 

Stitch on the diagonal marking. Trim the corner off ¼” away from the marked line. Flip the triangle open and press the seam allowance toward the corner triangle. 

Repeat for the second unit.

Sew together the 6” x 9½” unit and 9½” B fabric square with ¼” seam allowance. Place them like in the next images. Press the seam allowances toward the B fabric square.  

Sew together this unit with the first unit with ¼” seam allowance. Press the seams toward the latter. Press. The block should measure about 14¾” - 15”, depending on the accuracy of how you sewed. Add the border pieces. Now, the unfinished block should measure 17".  

Quilting

One of the most beautiful ways to finish a patchwork project is by quilting it. 

Layer:

- at the bottom - 19" x 19" backing fabric, right side down

- in the middle - the 19" x 19" piece of batting

- on top - the block, right side up.

Baste the layers together and enjoy quilting your preferred design. I used a temporary glue spray for basting.

Finishing

Wash the quilt with cold or lukewarm water and mild detergent. 

Lay the quilt flat to dry, smoothing it gently. After drying, press it on the back side, only if needed.

While it dries, prepare the pillow back.

Trim the quilt to 16½”. 

Sew the quilt (which is the front of the pillow)  with the back together.

You're done!

Your Valentine pillow cover is complete. 

As Valentine's Day is a holiday when lovers express their affection with greetings and gifts, don’t stop. Sew this pattern in pairs of pillows.

I hope you'll enjoy making these cuties as much as I do.

If you need other patterns for quick and easy modern quilts or bags, 

It takes you to my Etsy Shop.

All orders made during February 2025 will receive as bonus the quilt pattern Love Thoughts in PDF format.

Have a beautiful sewing day, my friends!

Thank you for your support!

How to finish the quilt - The facing method

The face binding method hides the quilt's raw edges while freeing the quilt design from the visual binding's frame. It is very useful for the wall hanging quilts, but it can be used for any type of modern quilt. It also reduces bulk in the corners, and provides nice clean turned edges.There are several ways of doing it. I will show you how I did it.

Facing the quilt with hanging corners

I used the same tools I use for binding.

1. I trimmed the quilt. I measured the length and the width of the quilt (approx. 85" x 102). 

2. For each of the four quilt edges I prepared four strips of fabric 2 ½" wide and 3" shorter than each side of the quilt. In my case – (2) 2 ½" x 82" and (2) 2 ½" x 99" (you might keep the strip uncut and trim it when sewing, right before you get to the quilt corner). For each corner of the quilt I cut four 5" squares. 

3. I folded in half lengthwise right side out the four strips and pressed them with iron. I folded each square diagonally in half right side out to make triangles and pressed them. 

4. I placed the quilt on a flat surface (floor) with the top facing up. I pinned the four triangles in each corner of the quilt with the raw edges of the triangles aligned with the raw edges of the quilt. I stitched the corners in place with ¼ " seam allowance.

 

5. I centered and pinned the four folded strips along each corresponding side of the quilt, on top of the triangles, with the raw edges aligned with the raw edges of the quilt, leaving a 1 ½" gap at each corner of the quilt. 

6. I stitched all the way around the edge of the quilt with a ¼' seam allowance, overlapping the corner seam lines. 

If  you use a continuous strip, trim it right before you get to the quilt corner

I clipped the four corners avoiding the seams.

7.  I flipped the triangles to the back and, with a pen with the cap on, I carefully pushed all the corners out to give them a nice finish. I pressed the triangles in place. I pressed the strips away from the quilt. Then I folded, pressed them with steam to the back side of the quilt, having about 1/16″ of quilt front showing on the back.

9. Keeping the quilt with the top up, I stitched by machine all the way around at 7/8 of an inch away of the quilt edges (the facing strips are 1" wide) to secure the strips to the back of the quilt. If you want that the stitching to be invisible on the quilt top, stitch the strips to the back of the quilt by hand.

I hope you find this post helpful. 

I used this method to finish a quilt made from old jeans and men's shirts, following the instructions of "Meeting with friends" quilt pattern.

Have a beautiful sewing day, my dears!

How to use old jeans for sewing a quilt. Some useful tips to make your work easier

 

I like denim. I’ve always liked to wear jeans, denim jackets, denim shirts or pinafore dresses. So, the desire to make a quilt from this kind of cloth came naturally. I asked my family and friends to give me jeans they no longer wore, and in time I managed to collect about 15-20 pairs.

In August 2023 I decided to use this pattern and started making the quilt using 10 pairs of jeans and two men's shirts. I finished it in January 2024 after taking about a three-month sewing break.

When it comes to sew quilts made of old jeans, the easiest design is the one of pieces measuring about 5" side and which allows the color shades to be randomly placed. The internet is full of incredible improvisational denim quilts that are a valuable source of inspiration. But in this post, I'll talk about the key aspects of my experience sewing a quilt with a structured pattern, which requires a certain sequence for color/shade variation and pieces with sides up to 10 inches.

In a nut shell, I made a quilt composed of 30 blocks, measuring around 85" x 102" (215 cm x 250 cm) with the block size of 17"(43.5 cm), using 2 sets of fabrics.

The fabric for the quilt must be carefully chosen: too much stretch in jeans fabric gives a wonky shape in the block pieces. To better maintain their shape, I opted for minimal to no stretch jeans.

I used light, medium, and dark colored jeans for the block background. I cut the pieces from each color so I could get a light-to-dark shade effect. I also used two men's shirts as focus fabrics, a piece from another shirt for the blocks' central squares, and store-bought cotton fabric for backing and facing (rather than binding).

I washed and lightly ironed/pressed each pair of jeans, shirts and backing fabric. 

From each leg of the jeans I cut strips with the width on the size of the pieces that I was going to get from them. Then I worked in different ways with them:

- from one tube-like strips I cut the seams and then I cut the unfolded strips into necessary pieces.

- on others, first I unstitched the seams to increase a little bit their length, I pressed, and then I cut them in pieces.

- from another ones I cut two pieces at a time keeping the tube strip lying flat.

For each block I joined the denim pieces with different degrees of discoloration aiming to achieve a certain design when assembling the blocks.

To get more use out of the fabric I even used pieces that included seams but I carefully adjusted them to avoid bulk.

 I kept the seam out of the corners though, because much bulk in the corners makes the pieces too thick to sew.

I pieced the quilt top using ¼" seams and I pressed them open. For thick denim I recommend ½" seams. Pressing is essential to obtain accurate seams and making your quilt lie flat.

On the stretch jeans areas I placed the iron on them and hold it still. To move it to a different part of the pieced block, I lifted it up and place it in a new spot.  Moving the iron around on the fabric can stretch it out.  Flat seams need a careful steam pressing.

 I used regular polyester thread for piecing, machine embroidery thread for quilting, jeans needle for both piecing and quilting, and free motion foot for quilting. I chose the quilting thread to match the gold colored double stitching of the jeans. I quilted with straight stitching.

Instead of binding I chose faced binding. It was the best choice for this denim quilt: the edges came out nice, thin, straight and flat. I wrote a separate blog post about how I finished this quilt using The facing method.

Because I only had a few pieces of each color shade, setting up them took a lot of attention in order to get repetitive sequences. Here is the result:

Have a beautiful sewing day, my dears!