How to use old jeans for sewing a quilt. Some useful tips to make your work easier

 

I like denim. I’ve always liked to wear jeans, denim jackets, denim shirts or pinafore dresses. So, the desire to make a quilt from this kind of cloth came naturally. I asked my family and friends to give me jeans they no longer wore, and in time I managed to collect about 15-20 pairs.

In August 2023 I decided to use this pattern and started making the quilt using 10 pairs of jeans and two men's shirts. I finished it in January 2024 after taking about a three-month sewing break.

When it comes to sew quilts made of old jeans, the easiest design is the one of pieces measuring about 5" side and which allows the color shades to be randomly placed. The internet is full of incredible improvisational denim quilts that are a valuable source of inspiration. But in this post, I'll talk about the key aspects of my experience sewing a quilt with a structured pattern, which requires a certain sequence for color/shade variation and pieces with sides up to 10 inches.

In a nut shell, I made a quilt composed of 30 blocks, measuring around 85" x 102" (215 cm x 250 cm) with the block size of 17"(43.5 cm), using 2 sets of fabrics.

The fabric for the quilt must be carefully chosen: too much stretch in jeans fabric gives a wonky shape in the block pieces. To better maintain their shape, I opted for minimal to no stretch jeans.

I used light, medium, and dark colored jeans for the block background. I cut the pieces from each color so I could get a light-to-dark shade effect. I also used two men's shirts as focus fabrics, a piece from another shirt for the blocks' central squares, and store-bought cotton fabric for backing and facing (rather than binding).

I washed and lightly ironed/pressed each pair of jeans, shirts and backing fabric. 

From each leg of the jeans I cut strips with the width on the size of the pieces that I was going to get from them. Then I worked in different ways with them:

- from one tube-like strips I cut the seams and then I cut the unfolded strips into necessary pieces.

- on others, first I unstitched the seams to increase a little bit their length, I pressed, and then I cut them in pieces.

- from another ones I cut two pieces at a time keeping the tube strip lying flat.

For each block I joined the denim pieces with different degrees of discoloration aiming to achieve a certain design when assembling the blocks.

To get more use out of the fabric I even used pieces that included seams but I carefully adjusted them to avoid bulk.

 I kept the seam out of the corners though, because much bulk in the corners makes the pieces too thick to sew.

I pieced the quilt top using ¼" seams and I pressed them open. For thick denim I recommend ½" seams. Pressing is essential to obtain accurate seams and making your quilt lie flat.

On the stretch jeans areas I placed the iron on them and hold it still. To move it to a different part of the pieced block, I lifted it up and place it in a new spot.  Moving the iron around on the fabric can stretch it out.  Flat seams need a careful steam pressing.

 I used regular polyester thread for piecing, machine embroidery thread for quilting, jeans needle for both piecing and quilting, and free motion foot for quilting. I chose the quilting thread to match the gold colored double stitching of the jeans. I quilted with straight stitching.

Instead of binding I chose faced binding. It was the best choice for this denim quilt: the edges came out nice, thin, straight and flat. I wrote a separate blog post about how I finished this quilt using The facing method.

Because I only had a few pieces of each color shade, setting up them took a lot of attention in order to get repetitive sequences. Here is the result:

Have a beautiful sewing day, my dears!

Meeting with friends quilts. Pattern release

I am so glad that after long time, I finally have great news: I just released two quilt patterns!

In the late fall of 2021, while the rules imposed in the Pandemic kept us far from each other, I made some patterns for some mini quilts, good to use as coasters. For one of them I wrote the pattern because I realized that it is not only beginner friendly, but also you need only an hour or two to make it. I chose squares, rectangles and half square triangles to play with.

It's not by chance that I called it “Meeting with friends” as that was the idea I wanted to express:

The central unit symbolizes the table that gathers friends around it. Two triangles meeting at their points symbolizes the friends. The resulting  extension of their lines forms an X-cross, a very harmonious sign for meeting, and the ancient symbol for time (the hourglass).

This block combines in a simple and modern manner two of the most used patchwork layouts: Log Cabin and Half Square Triangle (HST).

Because Christmas was approaching, I used fabrics in the colors and prints specific to the winter holidays, but the block looks great using a wide variety of color combinations and prints (except large prints).

Meeting with friends mini quilt measures 8 ¾" x 8 ¾" (22.5 cm x 22.5 cm) before quilting and washing.

It can be used to be displayed on the wall, added to a bag, as well as on the table as a mug rug. For the wall, you should add a sleeve or hanging pockets to the back of the quilt before binding so that the binding covers the raw edges and gives a neat finish (these instructions are not included in this pattern).

Then, one of my friends who helped me testing the pattern, asked me to enlarge the block for making a pillow cover. So it came out a 17” (43.5 cm) square block and I got to the point where the natural question arose: what would a quilt from several such blocks look like? I designed layouts and layouts, searching “the one”, the versatility of this block giving endless set ups and quilt styles.

It was hard to choose which layout I will use for making a sample quilt, but in the end I chose this one:

Meeting with friends quilt is based on only one 17” quilt block. It is a user-friendly pattern and provides step by step color photo guide and instructions to cut and machine piecing, and gives also hints and tips which will help you to assemble this quilt faultless.

 The quilt measures 67" x 84" (170 cm x 210 cm) before washing and quilting.

Quilt sizes based on 17"/43.5 cm “Meeting with friends” block:

• - Baby/Crib - approx. 34" x 50½" (86.5 cm x 128 cm) 

• - Throw - approx. 50½" x 50½" (128 cm x 128 cm) 

•               - approx. 50½" x 67" (128 cm x 170 cm)

• - Twin - approx. 67" x 84" (170 cm x 210 cm)  (the quilt featured in this pattern).

• - Full/Queen - approx. 84" x 100" (210 cm x 254 cm).

 It's an easy quilt pattern even for the beginning quilters and it is perfect for anyone who wants to sew a simple, cheerful, quick and modern quilt.

Meeting with friends quilt is not difficult to make, but it does require a bit of precision.

 In this pattern you will find also suggestions and information for sewing quilts with different layouts, settings, dimensions and color combinations based only on this block.

This pattern is Fat Eighths, Fat Quarter and yardage friendly.

Look how beautiful turn out my One block-pillow covers! Using only one 17" Meeting with friends block and your scrap pile, you could cheer up your dining room, bedroom and/or porch.  

 

Both patterns are also budget-friendly because they give you the opportunity to use up your leftover fabrics for which you have been waiting for the quilts that will deserve them.

 If you don't want a busy quilt design and you are looking for a fast project for which you don't need any fancy tools, but only very basic quilting supplies, then these two quilts are for you!

You’ll end up with beautiful quilts that look like a pro made them!

Would you like to make at least one Meeting with friends mini quilt or quilt of your own? You can purchase this patterns by clicking here. You can get this patterns at a 25% OFF INTRODUCTORY PRICE now through Thursday, June 15 2023.

Thank you my friends!

Have a beautiful sewing day!

A dress and a bit of patchwork

     I had an old T-shirt in a good shape and a piece of fabric that I bought a long time ago with no purpose in mind, just because I loved it. I had also a box full of fabric pieces. 

    So, in an afternoon I improvised a patchwork block and I sewed it on an interfaced backing. Then I measured the circumference of the T-shirt, then I sewed together the short edges of the piece of fabric making a cylinder and I wrinkled the top edge of it until I obtained a circumference equal to that of the T-shirt. I sewed the patchwork block onto the piece of fabric as a pocket and next I sewed the piece of fabric and the T-shirt base together.I gave it a good press and that was all. I made a new dress in only a few hours.

    I wear this dress with great pleasure, not only because I made it myself, but because it is also a pattern that will never go out of style and above all, because I prolonged the life of a piece of clothing, which would otherwise have ended up in the trash, although with an insignificant effort, it can be worn for a long time from here on out.

I hope I woke you up feeling like sewing new clothes out of old clothes!

Have a beautiful day and happy sewing, my dears!

TUTORIAL - How to install invisible magnetic snaps on a bag

 

Overview

    The pronged magnetic snaps (standard magnetic snaps) are a very easy and fast closure for a bag, but when your bag needs a clean-looking, flat profile, hidden from view magnetic closure, a practical variant is using invisible magnetic snaps, known also as sew-in magnetic snaps. They are very useful for many types of bags, for wallets or pocket flaps. 

    These invisible magnetic snaps are composed of two parts, like the standard magnetic snaps, but both parts are flat discs, encased in a soft, clear plastic pad that is easy to sew through with no special needle. Anyone can do it.

   They come in different dimensions and in sets. One set includes two magnetic pieces, a positive and a negative. Depending on the manufacturer, some of them have the positive piece marked with a "+" in one corner of the plastic pad and the negative piece marked with a "–". 

Dimensions of my magnetic snaps: 

– magnet 3/4" diameter 

– plastic pad 1 ¼ " square. 

Positioning the snaps

    To see which is the front and which is the back of the two magnets, bring them close to each other. The right position is, of course, that in which the two magnets have the greatest strength of attraction. Mark the back of the snaps with a permanent marker - you will need this later.

    Place one bag panel wrong side up. Measure one side of the magnetic snap pad (usually it is a square). Mine is 1 ¼" and the following instructions are based on this.

Mark 1 ¼"  and 2 ½" down the top edge. See the horizontal orange lines. Mark the center of the bag panel. See the red vertical line.

 If your pad has other dimensions, draw the first line at a distance equal to the side of the pad, and draw the second line at a distance equal to the side of the pad x 2.

    Fold the top edge over. Press and pin or use clips to keep it in place. 

Installing the snaps

    Center one snap (doesn't matter which one) back side up, over the folded edge. Use clips to keep it in place.

     Top stitch as you wish: close to the magnetic snap or close to the pad edge. Use a zipper foot if you prefer. Use matching thread.

    I recommend placing a piece of fabric or vinyl, or cork etc. between the snap area and needle plate (the orange piece in the photos above), to weaken the strength of the magnet while sewing. Just be careful to keep it away from stitching.

    You might secure the seam either by back stitching at the beginning and end of the seam or by burying the ends of the threads in the panel folds. The latter gives a cleaner look.

    Place the bag panel wrong side up. Fold the top edge over one more time. Press and use clips to keep it in place. Now the snap is tucked between folds, front side up.

    If you use fabric straps, now is the time to attach them. For this bag, I used leather straps and I attached them after the bag was assembled, as the last step. 

    Sew a seam on the bottom edge of the folded side and one seam at about 1/8" down from the top edge of the panel.

    Repeat for the other bag panel.

  

  As you can see, the invisible magnetic snaps closure looks so good and provides the same security as the standard magnetic snaps. 

    Almost nothing to see on the inside. Only a fine stitched square that is barely visible.

    Nothing on the outside.

    If you have already a pair of invisible snaps in some drawer and want to use them, you have the right project here 

    The bag in this tutorial was made following the instructions of this pattern, which allows so many variations.

When ordering Unlined shopping bag with removable interior pocket Pattern, leave me a message if you want to save this tutorial and I will send it to you as a .pdf file.

                                                     

 To remember, pin this for later.

   

    Other ideas and tutorials you may find HERE, on my blog. 

    Have a look to my pattern shop www.etsy.com/shop/1BeautifulDay for more ideas too.

    Have a beautiful sewing day, my dears!

New sewing pattern - Tama Handbag

Here where I live it's a beautiful autumn. With sunny days and golden colors in gardens, but also rainy days, when you better read, knit or sew something useful and beautiful. It was precisely these days of bad weather that were the ones in which I managed to sew a few bags. 

Thus, today I'm happy to share my brand new bag pattern, Tama Handbag!

What do you think? Pretty, isn't it? I'm sure you noticed the zippered pockets. Not one, not two, but three! A lot of things to keep at hand.

Of course, there are also two slip pockets

Finished dimensions of this bag are: 13¼"(33.5 cm) wide; 13¼" (33.5 cm) tall (without handles); approx. 2¾" (7 cm) deep on top; 4" (10 cm) deep on bottom.

For this bag I recommend you use quilt weight fabrics, denim, light weight cotton duck, light weight home decorating fabric, or canvas. The fabric does not have to be too thick, as it will be difficult to sew it if you have a home sewing machine.

Here is a list of materials needed (fabric requirements are based on 44''/110 cm wide fabric):
For exterior bag:

- from fabric A – half yard/meter for the front and back panels; from fabric B – half yd/m for gusset.
- for reinforcing the fabric:
- from 20"/50 cm wide light weight interfacing – about 3 yds/2.5 m.
- a piece of about 30"/76 cm x 45"/114 cm batting.
- optional – 30"/76 cm of fabric for backing
For lining – about 1½ yd/1.5 m.
Zippers - for exterior pockets - 3 zippers - at least 9" (23 cm) long (teeth dimension);
Magnetic snap - one set of 18 mm (¾");
Sewing thread to match the fabrics;
Zipper foot, free-motion quilting foot,100/16 sewing machine needle.

 Would you like to make a  Tama Handbag of your own? Then click here for the pattern.

You will sew a handy and beautiful quilted handbag to carry many items in.
Ideal for everyday use, it has plenty of storage, giving you quickly access to your most needed things placed in three exterior pockets and two interior pockets. 

Mix and match the fabrics to create the perfect handbag for your style and the season.

My wonderful friend and talented quilter and sewist Silvia Ciubotaru sewed up this beautiful Tama Handbag:

You are welcome in my little Etsy Shop. Maybe your next project is there.

Have a beautiful day, my dears!

Thank you for your support!